Your new puppy is arriving and you have heard of crate-training, but are not sure how to make it work for you and your newest addition. From years of experience as a pet-owner, lover and specialist, I have learned some things about crate training that I'd like to share with you.

Crate training is a wonderful part of an overall family training program if handled correctly. Your puppy will feel secure in his space if you make it a pleasurable experience from the very beginning by following these 14 tips.

1. Get a crate large enough to allow your pup space to turn around, stand up and lie down for a nap.
2. Put a soft blanket in the crate, preferably with his mother's scent on it when you bring him home.
3. Make sure to put his toys for chewing and a treat or two in the space furthest from the "door".
4. Put the crate in a corner of the room where he can feel out of the way, yet have access to you.
5. Let your pup wander in and out of the crate to get a feel for it, the crate makes a nice "den" for your puppy and he will likely take to it for comfort and solace when he is tired, over-excited or worried.
6. Remove your pet's collar(s) before closing the crate to avoid any choking.
7. Have a bottle of water with ice hooked to the crate if you will leave your puppy for more than an hour.
8. When it's time to be crated, tell your puppy "Crate" or "Bed" and show him to the crate. You may put a treat in there if you have been training him with treats.
9. Don't ever scare him into the crate, put him in there as a punishment or otherwise encourage a negative connotation to the crate.
10. Practice this several times a day during his first few weeks home. Leaving him in the crate for short intervals while you leave the house. He will soon realize that you come back and let him out.
11. If your dog needs something to chew, make sure you give him a toy that he cannot shred, break or otherwise harm himself with. If he is an aggressive chewer, I recommend the Galileo Bone by Nylabone.
12. When you let your puppy out of the crate, immediately take him outside to relieve himself. For very young puppies, this will likely be every 4 hours. On average a puppy needs a break in as many hours as he is months old - if your puppy is 4 months, please give him a potty break every four hours.
13. When you are leaving, or putting him in the crate, give him his command "Crate", praise him gently when he complies (but do not get effusive - you don't want him to get all riled up) and then leave without a commotion.
14. Upon returning, open the crate and let your puppy come out at his own pace. Don't make a big fuss, simply praise him gently, put on his collar and leash and take him outside.

Crate training is a valuable asset to any training program for new puppies and can help enhance your relationship with your canine pal. A happy and comfortable puppy will mature into a well-mannered and loving companion.

Breeding timing refers to the purposeful timing of insemination during the estrus (heat) period in order to maximize fertility and the chances of conception. This technique may be utilized to ensure conception in dogs.

The condition or disease described in this medical article can affect both dogs and cats. If you would like to learn more about how this disease affects cats, please visit this page in the PetMD health library.

Symptoms and Types

In order to maximize the odds of conception with properly timed breeding in dogs, it is best to pin-point, as close as possible, the day of ovulation for the bitch. Symptoms of estrus-onset in the bitch are evidenced by reduced swelling in the vulva, and the appearance of vaginal discharge. The male animal, or stud, will show interest in the female, and she may exhibit “flagging,” by which she will respond to being stroked at the genital region by elevating the tail to one side. A vaginal exam, however, serves as a better indicator of a fertile period than the aforementioned physical and behavioral signs.

Causes

Breeding timing and related fertility-maximizing techniques may be utilized for a number of reasons. This may be deemed necessary if there is an apparent failure to achieve conception in the female dog (also referred to as bitch).

Diagnosis

The most reliable method of determining the ovulation cycle is via vaginal exam and vaginoscopy in order to examine the vaginal lining and determine if the bitch is in estrus. Hormone levels, such as LH, and progesterone, will be tested to determine when fertility levels are peaking. Additionally, an ultrasound of the ovaries may help verify ovulation.

Treatment

To maximize fertility when breeding dogs, it is necessary to estimate the female's day of ovulation. Because of this, a luteinizing hormone (LH) may be given to female dogs in order to control ovulation and regulate the bitch’s cycle, allowing breeding to be timed accordingly. The period of maximum fertility occurs approximately five to six days after the LH peaks. In this time, multiple breedings may be done by inseminating the bitch up to three times per week after progesterone levels rise. Frozen semen, though less likely to work than fresh chilled semen, may be used to inseminate the bitch – a single insemination five or six days after LH hormones peak is common. It is important to time insemination based on progesterone levels in order to improve chances of conception.

Living and Management

After initial fertility-maximizing measures have been taken, a follow up pregnancy examination can be done to determine the success of the procedure. This can be done via vaginal specimens. The gestation period for dogs lasts approximately 63 days from ovulation.

With hundreds of breeds to choose from, how do you decide which one is right? Narrow down the choices in a few simple steps.

Size Matters

First, consider your available space. If you live in an apartment, you can rule out large dogs. Look for dogs in the Toy group, such as Yorkshire Terriers, or some of the smaller dogs in the Terrier group, like the Miniature Schnauzer.

If you have children, you may want to rule out very small dogs, such as Chihuahuas or Maltese. They are delicate and can be accidentally injured by young children. On the other hand, very large dogs, such as Boxers or Saint Bernards, can be overly boisterous and can accidentally turn your child into a human bowling pin. Consider medium-sized breeds, such as Fox Terriers or Lhasa Apsos.

Exercise Essential

Next, consider how much exercise you can give your dog. If you have a home with a fenced yard, your dog will be able to get some exercise on his own.

However, dog breeds in the Sporting, Hound, and Herding groups are very high-energy animals, and they will need intensive daily exercise. Plan to take a lot of long walks with your dog or go for a daily romp in the park. After all, these dogs were bred to work hard, and they don't do well unless they have a job to do or a way to burn off excess energy.

To Groom Or Not

Also, don't forget to consider grooming needs. Some breeds need only half an hour or so of grooming a week, while others require an hour a day. If you are short on time, don't buy a Standard Poodle or a Maltese -- unless you plan to take your dog to a groom. Breeds like Boston Terriers or Whippets are good choices for people who don't have time for a lot of grooming.

Puppy Problems

Once you decide which breed you want, you will need to consider the age of the dog. Many people opt to buy a cuddly little puppy instead of an adult. While puppies have the advantage of not yet having developed any bad habits, it will be up to you to be sure your puppy is housebroken and obedience trained.

Do you want to buy a puppy? If so, you will need to find a reputable dog breeder who has a litter of the appropriate breed. Often, a good breeder will have a waiting list for puppies. If you aren't the patient sort, you may be tempted to buy a puppy from a pet store. A word of caution -- many pet store puppies come from puppy mills and have genetic health defects, bad temperaments, and other problems. It is usually safest to buy a puppy directly from the breeder. Older dogs are usually housebroken and frequently have some obedience training. They are also less likely to be hyperactive and destructive. However, they can have behavioral problems or health problems that prompted the former owner to find them a new home. If you are interested in an older dog, you may want to visit your local animal shelter or call a breed rescue. These groups evaluate the dogs' health and temperament before adopting them out. Once you've picked the breed and the dog, you have one more important decision to make -- what to name your new best friend!
 

Although to many of us, the “rules” are common sense, there are of course people who either don’t realize or choose not to follow the etiquette of dog walking. In order to clear up any potential confusion, I thought I would take this opportunity to be the “Miss Manners” of the dog world.

For example, when walking your pet in a neighborhood, it is not courteous to allow your dog to walk on people’s front lawns, or urinate on their mail boxes or landscaping. Instead, a more appropriate way to handle your pet is to walk him in the street or on the sidewalk and allow access only to “rough” areas to eliminate. Should your neighborhood not have such an area, it is still inappropriate to allow your pooch to pee on people’s property… keep him to the strip of grass that’s between the sidewalk and street and steer clear of people’s plantings and posts.

Picking up is another issue of concern. Dog walkers, please, don’t even leave your house without a plastic bag for picking up after your pet! And don’t forget to use it! I’ve had three different people tell me recently that they’ve seen people make a great show of pulling out their plastic bag when they see neighbors driving past, only to stuff it back in their pocket once the “coast is clear,” leaving the pile behind anyway.

Have an excited dog? Keep in mind that not everyone may be as much of a dog lover as you are. If a passing person wishes to greet your pet, you will be able to tell, as they will approach you and ask if they may pet your dog. Don’t assume that every man, woman and child wish to pet your pooch as you allow him to drag you over to them and pounce upon them in greeting. Some people are afraid of dogs, or may not be in the mood to be jumped on. Perhaps they’re out for a jog and prefer not to break their stride. Either way it should be their choice to greet or not to greet.

The same holds true for other dogs. True, most people out walking their dog are interested in allowing their pet to socialize with other dogs. But be sure to gauge their interest before approaching. If your dog is barking, most people prefer not to let their dog be the “test” of whether it’s aggression or not. Further, if you have a little dog who barks and may snap, don’t assume it’s okay to allow that just because the other dog is bigger. Having firsthand experience with this, I can assure you that my dog doesn’t enjoy being bitten regardless of the fact that he is 80 pounds and his “attacker” may weigh only twelve.

Last but not least, remember that walking your dog means personally walking your dog on a leash. Numerous readers have contacted me about neighbors who simply “send their dogs out” to do their business, which inevitably ends up on their property for them to clean up. While you may not mind the piles in your yard, your neighbors should not have to worry about it in theirs.

Of course, all of the above rules of dog walking etiquette don’t only apply in your neighborhood. The same courtesies should be followed at parks, shopping centers, the vet’s office or any other place visited by you and your pet. By working together to be responsible pet owners, we can all help keep our neighborhoods and parks a fun place to be without the need for authorities to implement overly-restrictive dog laws. Happy walking!

submitted by Deb West, Brownwaterdogs

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